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Routes in Bellicose Peak

North East Face (Freer's Cheers) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI3+ R
Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 3000 ft, 5 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Evan Phillips / Carl Oswald (May 1997)
Page Views: 357 total, 13/month
Shared By: evanphillipsak on Oct 7, 2015
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

Start by climbing steep snow through a few short rock steps (condition dependent). The first technical pitch strikes out left on 5.8 rock with poor protection. The next 3 pitches follow water ice (WI 3+). The final section of the face follows steep snow up to 50 degrees. Once you top out on the face, follow the Shroud route to the summit. We descended the Shroud (on the Peter's Creek side of Bellicose) and wrapped around back and over the Bellicose-Benign col, back down to our base camp below the north east face.

Location

From the snout of Elkutna Glacier, head up gully, making switchbacks and scrambling (3rd class) up steep tundra and scree for 1,000'. Make your way up beautiful alpine valley to flat area littered with boulders, alpine flowers, and crystal clear mountain streams. This position is about a mile from the Bellicose-Benign Col and is a great place to make a base camp. Follow moraine to a pocket glacier below the N.N.E face of Bellicose. You will see a couloir snaking it's way up the face.

Protection

4-6 ice screws, cams up to 3", nuts, slings

Photos

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