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Routes in Pearly Gates

Albatross T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Angelic Curses T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bring your Weedwacker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Celestial Groove T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cell Phone Posse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cloud Nine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dog Ate My Topo, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easy Pickins T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Delicious T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heavens Sake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hepped Up on Goofballs. T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Last Rites T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Leap of Faith T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loaves of Fun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost Souls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Meathooks of Mercy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Milky Way S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Room For Squares T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pearly Gates T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poison Balance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Purgatory T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scene is Clean, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Speak No Evil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
TOOL TIME S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veins of Glory S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tony Bentley,Ron Cotman, Dave Bale, 2002
Page Views: 135 total, 5/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Oct 7, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

As you may have guessed, the crux is right after the bolt. How to get to the nice looking jug?
The lower crack is really fun, maybe 10a, crack runs out and it seems like the bolt is a long ways away, but ledgy holds make it pretty easy. The move past the bolt is perplexing, don't forget the holds on the right. Save some strength after "the move" because it is pumpy getting up the lip above. I had to dig out the crack with nut tool for a small cam.
2 bolts above protect the slab.
This was listed as 11a, I think it is 11b, so I give it the elusive 11- grade.

Location

next right of Loaves of Fun, left of Veins of Glory.

Protection

Single rack to #3, 3 bolts. chain anchor
I placed 2) #2 Camalots in the lower portion, it would have been nice to plug one of those in the pocket jug after the bolt.

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geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
 
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
 
thanks Viktor, Simpsons are always good for quotes.Hepped is what I wrote- right out of "the" book. Oct 9, 2015
The name is a quote from Chief Wiggum (The Simpsons)
and it's "Hepped up on Goofballs", not "Helped" Oct 8, 2015
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Hi Geoff.

I'm hoping that there's no meaning there. If so, then dang, it's down to one star...

Pearly Gates? Arg, not yet, unfortunately. It's now at the top of the L-worth list though... Oct 8, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
 
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
 
Jon, does it have some hidden meaning? kinda funny, but also makes me cringe for some reason. Hard 2 moves, fun route. Have you been to the Pearly Gates- some great cracks. Oct 7, 2015
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Three stars, just for the name. Oct 7, 2015