Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tony Bentley,Ron Cotman, Dave Bale, 2002
Page Views: 280 total · 7/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Oct 7, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

As you may have guessed, the crux is right after the bolt. How to get to the nice looking jug?
The lower crack is really fun, maybe 10a, crack runs out and it seems like the bolt is a long ways away, but ledgy holds make it pretty easy. The move past the bolt is perplexing, don't forget the holds on the right. Save some strength after "the move" because it is pumpy getting up the lip above. I had to dig out the crack with nut tool for a small cam.
2 bolts above protect the slab.
This was listed as 11a, I think it is 11b, so I give it the elusive 11- grade.

Location

next right of Loaves of Fun, left of Veins of Glory.

Protection

Single rack to #3, 3 bolts. chain anchor
I placed 2) #2 Camalots in the lower portion, it would have been nice to plug one of those in the pocket jug after the bolt.

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Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
Three stars, just for the name. Oct 7, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.11-
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.11-
Jon, does it have some hidden meaning? kinda funny, but also makes me cringe for some reason. Hard 2 moves, fun route. Have you been to the Pearly Gates- some great cracks. Oct 7, 2015
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
Hi Geoff.

I'm hoping that there's no meaning there. If so, then dang, it's down to one star...

Pearly Gates? Arg, not yet, unfortunately. It's now at the top of the L-worth list though... Oct 8, 2015
The name is a quote from Chief Wiggum (The Simpsons)
and it's "Hepped up on Goofballs", not "Helped" Oct 8, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.11-
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.11-
thanks Viktor, Simpsons are always good for quotes.Hepped is what I wrote- right out of "the" book. Oct 9, 2015