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Dashboard Jesus

5.10+, Trad, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.7 from 6 votes
FA: brandon gottung, wade plafcan
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > 4X4
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Description

This pitch is the 2nd pitch above the route Country. THe true 1st pitch of country is hardly done, we thought it was an FA but there are anchors is you follow the natural line above the 50 foot anchor on country, keep going up through off width stemming corner to where the #4 size crack angles sharp right. The 1st 2 bolt anchor is here.

Above this is Dashboard Jesus, a beautiful varnished splitter to right facing dihedral. This is a stunning line that gives you everything from offwidth pods to tight fingers at the top. The 2nd pitch we think is about 130 feet, but may go with a 70 to the country anchor. Bring a tag line to be sure though.

Location

Follow the line above and right of Country

Protection

Doubles, with either a 5 or 6 for the off width before the corner. 4-5 # 4 camelots would not go unused. After the corner is reached, the crack goes from hands down to blue metolius. A smaller piece before the anchor could be used as well.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brandon Gottung
CO Western Slope
 
[Hide Comment] The first pitch, Brown and Crunchy, has awesome stems, the climbing gets better after the early anchor. Pitch two, Dashboard Jesus, is a beautiful varnished corner. The belay is comfortable, making it a great two pitch outing, both 5.10+. Dec 16, 2015