Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Pamela Pack, Patrick Kingsbury, and Kris Schrijvers
Page Views: 1,027 total · 22/month
Shared By: Pamela Shanti Pack on Oct 5, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Galactus (the "devourer of worlds") is a beautiful 60' offwidth roof to squeeze. The pitch is accessed via a 50' 5.9 squeeze chimney or an easy scramble to the right of the approach chimney. Begin on an intimidating ramp above the chimney, and invert off a chicken wing to establish yourself in the roof. Sidewind 15-20' out the roof past the lip, and continue with a graceless grovel to a 2-bolt anchor.

Although the climbing on this route is deceptively easier than your average invert offwidth, be wary of your sparse gear placements as a miscalculation will cause a horrendous/dangerous fall into the chimney below. This is a fantastic TR for anyone wanting to climb a partially inverted style roof.

Location

Approach the route as if you were approaching Muscle and Fitness. The route begins on a large, flat ledge behind the Muscle and Fitness top-out. Climb the obvious chimney directly below the route to access it or scramble up to the base from the right of the chimney.

Protection

One #3 Bigbro and 1-2 6" cams. A 9" cam is helpful but not required. Build a solid anchor high in the crack before inverting off the ramp as a fall at the start would be a painful plummet into a chimney.

Photos