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Routes in Upper Devil's Playground

Barbed Wire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack to Nowhere T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crackpod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Day of Wrath T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Formicae S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Galactus T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gargoyle , The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gut Bomb V8- 7B
Lois V7 7A+
Meat Milkshake V6 7A
New Shoes T V4 6B
Panhandle , The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sarah Palin's Drill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thanos T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Things to do in Vedauwoo When You're a Moose T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tunnel Vision T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Pamela Pack, Patrick Kingsbury, and Kris Schrijvers
Page Views: 782 total · 28/month
Shared By: Pamela Shanti Pack on Oct 5, 2015
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Galactus (the "devourer of worlds") is a beautiful 60' offwidth roof to squeeze. The pitch is accessed via a 50' 5.9 squeeze chimney or an easy scramble to the right of the approach chimney. Begin on an intimidating ramp above the chimney, and invert off a chicken wing to establish yourself in the roof. Sidewind 15-20' out the roof past the lip, and continue with a graceless grovel to a 2-bolt anchor.

Although the climbing on this route is deceptively easier than your average invert offwidth, be wary of your sparse gear placements as a miscalculation will cause a horrendous/dangerous fall into the chimney below. This is a fantastic TR for anyone wanting to climb a partially inverted style roof.

Location

Approach the route as if you were approaching Muscle and Fitness. The route begins on a large, flat ledge behind the Muscle and Fitness top-out. Climb the obvious chimney directly below the route to access it or scramble up to the base from the right of the chimney.

Protection

One #3 Bigbro and 1-2 6" cams. A 9" cam is helpful but not required. Build a solid anchor high in the crack before inverting off the ramp as a fall at the start would be a painful plummet into a chimney.

Photos

Ray Lovestead
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Ray Lovestead   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
This climb is super bad ass and should not be missed. Don't think twice about top roping it. Just hike up to the top to drop a line. Very safe TR and lots of fun!

Horizontal chicken winging. What could be better? Jul 11, 2016