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Routes in High Bluffs

101 Slab S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ahab's Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Longbeard S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Weirdbeard S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Weirdbeard Original Start T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cave Dweller S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cthulhu's Reawakening TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gardyloo S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Guilty Pleasure S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hole in the Hull TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Land Ho! S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magellan's Voyage S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Magellan's Voyage (old traverse finish) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Man Overboard TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Me First Eyepatch S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Man's Land S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rated Arrrgh! T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sailor Jerry's S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Squal Line, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Direct finish: TR Brian Kay '93, FLA Evan W.
Page Views: 500 total · 14/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Oct 5, 2015
Admins: Lurker, Rick Shull, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Magellan's Voyage goes up the separate golden wall on the far left above the ocean. This description is for the newer finish that goes straight up towards the anchors, and skips the original 5.10a rightward traverse

P1. 5.8 Climb "No Man's Land" and stop at the first anchor (two decent old bolts and one new)
P2. 5.10a/b Steep slab with great pockets and edges 5.8-5.10a. Near the top, skip the traverse, and continue straight up with one or two 5.10b moves.
P3. 5.4 R Optional top out pitch

Recently rebolted with titanium. The original bolts are actually in somewhat decent condition (for now), but they did not protect any of the crux moves. The new bolts are more appropriately located. The old bolts are still there, feel free to clip them or ignore them.

Descent: Belay from the top and do two raps, stopping at the Ahab Slab anchor.

Location

Starts in a big hole just left of the major arch.

Protection

I think it is 8 or 10 bolts

Photos

Ryder Dschida
McKinleyville, CA
Ryder Dschida   McKinleyville, CA
Crazy route. Going over the crashing waves is just unreal.

Good falls on the traverse. Stay really low and go under the bulge to get the good footholds. Good pockets back up to the third bolt. May 29, 2016

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