Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Direct finish: TR Brian Kay '93, FLA Evan W.
Page Views: 536 total · 14/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Oct 5, 2015
Admins: Lurker, Rick Shull, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Magellan's Voyage goes up the separate golden wall on the far left above the ocean. This description is for the newer finish that goes straight up towards the anchors, and skips the original 5.10a rightward traverse

P1. 5.8 Climb "No Man's Land" and stop at the first anchor (two decent old bolts and one new)
P2. 5.10a/b Steep slab with great pockets and edges 5.8-5.10a. Near the top, skip the traverse, and continue straight up with one or two 5.10b moves.
P3. 5.4 R Optional top out pitch

Recently rebolted with titanium. The original bolts are actually in somewhat decent condition (for now), but they did not protect any of the crux moves. The new bolts are more appropriately located. The old bolts are still there, feel free to clip them or ignore them.

Descent: Belay from the top and do two raps, stopping at the Ahab Slab anchor.

Location

Starts in a big hole just left of the major arch.

Protection

I think it is 8 or 10 bolts

Photos

Ryder Dschida
McKinleyville, CA
Ryder Dschida   McKinleyville, CA
Crazy route. Going over the crashing waves is just unreal.

Good falls on the traverse. Stay really low and go under the bulge to get the good footholds. Good pockets back up to the third bolt. May 29, 2016