PRINT: Rock Climb Lonesome Dove, Indian Creek

Lonesome Dove

5.10+, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 2.2 from 9 votes
FA: FA: Eric Dixon, FFA: Felix Parham
Utah > Southeast Utah > San Juan County > Indian Creek > Dove Creek Wall

Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures! Details

2026 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…

For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.

Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.

Description

The start of the route is marked by two protection bolts, that can be supplemented with gear. Climb past the bolts into a right facing dihedral.

There is also a more direct start on the other side of the flake. That was the original start, and the other more intuitive start with bolts was cleaned and added after the FA.

Location

The first route you'll walk by in the main Dove Creek zone. Marked by a plaque.

Protection

(2) quickdraws

(1) .2 (1) blue Metolius (1) .3 (1) .4 (1) .5 (2) .75 (2) #1

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tim Foulkes leading Lonesome Dove, via the original start. The more popular, current start goes up the crack/flake system on the left.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matthew Tangeman
SW Colorado

Worth doing once, but be mindful of where you place gear as there is a lot of creepy sounding rock even in some spots you wouldn't expect. I've seen a couple people place gear in the finger crack formed by the detached pillar between bolts one and two - remember that the bolts are there for a reason; that pillar can move. The only reliable gear between the bolts is a deep #1 in the flare. Interesting, sorta awkward climbing marred by rock quality. Apr 28, 2022