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If the House is Rockin'...

5.12a/b, Trad, 85 ft (26 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Pickens Nose > Rock House Knob

Description

This is the line up the tallest part of the main wall. It starts on the left side beneath a bolt about 15' up, and a crack above (and in front of a TV-size boulder). The technical crux is at the bolt, but the redpoint crux is hanging on through the pump.

Two variations:
1. If the wall above is dry, climb to the sloping ledge about 50' up (gear and one bolt) and move right. Continue up the left diagonaling line of bolts to the top. This is the classic way to finish the route. Bring a finger/thin hand size cam, but otherwise this finish is all bolts.

2. If wall above is wet: From same sloping ledge, move right a bit to a jug rail and then back left on the angling rail to the anchor. The rail traverse is protected by finger to hand size cams.

Location

Left side of main wall, above a seasonal mud puddle.

Protection

Standard rack up to a #2 camelot. If doing variation 2, be sure to have a couple extra finger/hand size cams for finish.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Cole on the initial crack before the split.
[Hide Photo] Cole on the initial crack before the split.
Javiar on the left finish variation on a seepy day. The normal finish continues up the seam up and right.
[Hide Photo] Javiar on the left finish variation on a seepy day. The normal finish continues up the seam up and right.