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Routes in The 56 Wall

56 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Escape From Choss Angeles S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wascally Wabbit S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 166 total, 6/month
Shared By: WAGbag on Oct 1, 2015
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

Wandering up the center of the wall this route might get the award for sharpest route at the Fins. Start with a surprisingly hard move off the flake to 3 bolts of easy and sharp climbing angling right. The business starts as you make your way into the sloper and a very sharp pocket pinch. One long move gains the last obvious hold until you reach the anchors. Overall great climbing but docked a star due to the amount of cleaning I had to do up top, the sharpness down low and an anchor setup that isn't ideal.

Location

Center of the wall.

Protection

bolts to an offset anchor and single biner.

Photos

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WAGbag
Denver, CO
 
WAGbag   Denver, CO  
 
The anchor is an offset chain with a single biner through the bottom link and through a bolt. A single biner isn't generally advised, and putting it directly at the bolt usually creates a twist in the rope when lowering. Rapping of course solves this, but isn't the norm for the rest of the routes here. Oct 23, 2015
tsmartt  
what's wrong with the anchor? Oct 12, 2015