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Routes in The Ogre aka Mt. Hubris

Cosmic Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Golden Opportunity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
solar wind T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
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Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Tim Lochlan
Page Views: 341 total · 11/month
Shared By: Crimper E6 on Sep 30, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Edit]

Not a 3star route as in the guide.

Takes the nose and R eye of the Ogre. 1st pitch is choss gully solo to tree.

2nd pitch is the business and good fun. Easy slab past old bolt to cluster of poorish cams under 1st roof, this is probably the mental crux. Then slab to second roof and red camelot to hardish move past a bolt (replaced) to pull onto dyke proper. One more old bolt to 2bolt belay (replaced).. needs a 60m rope.

3rd pitch starts off good on the dyke, Then steps round R into a dirty gully to loose all exposure. Not particularly inspiring and feels pointlessly dangerous, with many good stances to drill, but no bolts and dirty/sandy. Not like a Tuolume R which is way awesome! a 5.10 leader might whitey :)
Only 3 bits of gear that will hold. Purple Camelot off the belay, RP3 at the Crux step right and a green alien.

4th pitch shite. Step L on chossy wall/chimney. Apparently a bolt somewhere??

Best to bail after pitch 2 IMO! Bolts are home made and rubbish! I replaced pitch 2+3 anchors with fixe ss 10mm and crux bolt pitch2.

UK E3+ 5c for those interested.

Protection [Edit]

I rebolted all anchors with fixe ss 3.5x 3/8ths and replaced the crux bolt on pitch 2 passing the 2nd roof to gain the dyke

Photos

aaah, Mark Fritzke, did those moves in 1986, the only pro Mark got was in the solution pocket, All I can remember is it was just before crossing the gritty oatmeal dish thing. What ever, we would never wear yoga pants, but its ok for girls. The yoga pants would get ripped to shreds by the manzanita, then the poison oak could go straight to your blood, Hopefully that would help to keep the nasty little plague carrying mice out of your mouth at your shitty little crags bivy( fist sized they are rocks and scorpions everywhere, and the mice) . And don't let the ranger catch you with a sleeping bag in the dome parking lot. they will throw you in the Dunsmuir dungeon(even if you drive a converted sprinter van) and take your warm castle crags ale for themselves. One time on another trip we traded food stamps for Hash, at a biker BBQ outside of Reddng. Did you re- rap bolt that one also? well any way now days climbing is safer, but sex. Holy shit that's scary. I sure miss the good old days. and no internet Mar 23, 2018

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