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Trad, TR, 90 ft,
Avg: 2.7 from 6
FA: David Carrier and Ben LaCour
> Harper's Ferry
> Balcony Rock
Access Issue: Mandatory Sign in for all outcrops. Closed West Virginia, Maryland Heights, Skink Rock, Stone Fort.
Registration is a mandatory requirement to climb or boulder on any outcrop, this is new since spring of 2018! Park info nps.gov/hafe/planyourvisit/… Climbing is Closed in all of Virginia and West Virginia. Mid Atlantic Climbers and the Access found are looking into that. 2018 Closures of Maryland Heights and all its sub-areas, also closed are Skink Rock, Stone Fort, Bug Valley, The Corners. Due to the landslide a 1/8 of a mile North of MD Heights. In the past, there were some Peregrine Falcon closures on Maryland Heights so best to check the park's website before visiting.
Start at the middle of the rocky bulge, midway between Cliff Monster and Crown of Thorns. Go straight for the top from here, using small ledges and jugs. Don't be tempted to exit left or right on the big diagonal ledges, you'll miss out on all the fun stuff in between. There are good holds right where you need them all the way up. Exit up and right on the final diagonal ledge near the top, and use the blocky arete to get up and over the final crux.
Top and bottom of the route is about 10-15 feet to climber's left of Crown of Thorns.
Sling the large boulder on top with a long static line, and drop the line over the edge of the ledge below in order to avoid rope drag. You can also use a gear anchor in the nice crack in the wall above the big ledge.