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Sweet Pea

5.9 PG13, Trad, TR, 90 ft,  Avg: 2.7 from 6 votes
FA: David Carrier and Ben LaCour
Maryland > Harper's Ferry > Balcony Rock
Access Issue: Mandatory Sign in for all outcrops. Closed West Virginia, Maryland Heights, Skink Rock, Stone Fort. Details

Description

Start at the middle of the rocky bulge, midway between Cliff Monster and Crown of Thorns. Go straight for the top from here, using small ledges and jugs. Don't be tempted to exit left or right on the big diagonal ledges, you'll miss out on all the fun stuff in between. There are good holds right where you need them all the way up. Exit up and right on the final diagonal ledge near the top, and use the blocky arete to get up and over the final crux.

Location

Top and bottom of the route is about 10-15 feet to climber's left of Crown of Thorns.

Protection

Sling the large boulder on top with a long static line, and drop the line over the edge of the ledge below in order to avoid rope drag. You can also use a gear anchor in the nice crack in the wall above the big ledge.

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David Carrier climbing Sweet Pea
[Hide Photo] David Carrier climbing Sweet Pea