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Routes in Government Bay

Blueberry Fortress S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Over Easy Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Papaya?Banana! T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Peach Wobbler S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pineapple Jazz S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roktoberfest S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wundercling S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Sean Foster
Page Views: 266 total · 9/month
Shared By: Sean Foster on Sep 29, 2015
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

Absolute classic!

This route defined the second month of my stay in Crane Lake in 2015. While trying to recover some gear I left on Papaya?Banana!, I began to see holds in this angled line to my right. The undercling at the final roof drew me in and the rest of it never let go.

Start on the shelf beyond the large detached rock at the left side of Government Bay wall. Do a traverse to a side pull to some crimps under a roof. Pull the roof and immediately mantle to a great resting stance. Then, game on. Boulder left on some sloping crimps to a jug, then push on through the finish.

A+ route.

Location

Left side of Government Bay wall. Boat to the detached rock or hike in from Nelson's Resort and rap to it.

Protection

Bolts, anchors

Photos

KurtH
  5.11+
KurtH  
  5.11+
amazing route! Such a unique and fun climb in a rad setting - great work on this one Sean. Aug 22, 2016
Tyler
  5.11c/d
Tyler  
  5.11c/d
This rig is a gem. Loved it. Jul 29, 2016