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Routes in Creag Ghlas

Salamander T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spoils of War T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Bob Brown, John Mackenzie (probably Lord JM), Colin Powell - 1994
Page Views: 42 total · 1/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Sep 29, 2015
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

A nice long route with views that keep getting better and continually interesting climbing. Described here with pitch 4 being linked to pitch 3 (from Gary Latter's book).

P1: Climb the nice crack to a good, though narrow ledge with some heather bushes.

P2: Make a few slabby face moves up and right to a horizontal break. Move up and then back left on the slabby wall to a good ledge with some blocks on the left and a couple cracks on the face behind.

P3: Two options. Option 1: Stay left up an easy face with a scoop to the overlap. Move left and up...rather boring.
Better option: More directly up the face, following the finger crack in the slab until beneath the overlap. Move right onto the face and up to a good ledge. Plug some gear somewhere up here if need be and make a long traverse up and left across broken ground, aiming for the obvious large left-facing corner. Build an anchor at the base of the corner system.

P4: Climb the corner to a large ledge and build an anchor.

P5: Climb the wide crack/chimney that narrows with height. Pull the last fun moves over a bulge and build a belay on blocks at the top.

Location

Locate the largest sweep of slabs on the cliff and look for the obvious dog-leg crack that starts off the ground.

Descend via a gully to climber's left, picking your way down the slope through the steep heather. Keep an eye out for the top of the Lower Tier area as you descend...you can cut left over to this area and then walk back down to the base of Salamander.

Protection

Nuts and cams to 3". Doubles of .75 to 2 (BD sizes) would be used in some places but otherwise aren't needed.

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