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India Ink

5.12b, Sport, 50 ft,  Avg: 1 from 1 vote
FA: Paul Crawford
California > Lake Tahoe > W Shore > Eagle Creek Canyon > Mayhem Cove

Description

I'm posting this just to alert anyone interested in trying this route that the first 2 bolts are missing. The only sane way of getting on this is by pre-clipping the first bolt on rap from a neighboring route then climbing in from the left past the first bolt of "Fatal Attraction", which can be ignored since it won't keep you from decking. Might be possible to climb straight up, but it was mossy and wet even in September of the driest year on record.

The short crux of the route is pulling past the closely spaced 1st and 2nd bolts. A couple of left knee bars is the only reasonable way to do it. Short and vicious!

Location

Far left side where the approach trail meets the cliff. First 2 bolts are missing as per Carville guide.

Protection

3 bolts on the steep black headwall, the first one about 25 feet off the deck.