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Routes in Pillar Wall

Baked Goods T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Parallel Universe T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Resting Bitch Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Casey Niggemyer, Eric Deschamps
Page Views: 144 total · 4/month
Shared By: Eric D on Sep 28, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Stage II Fire Restrictions and Closures in Place as of 8:00 AM May 23 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

A moderate finger crack with only one move of 10d. Climb the dihedral to the ledge and then trend up and right from the ledge.

Location [Suggest Change]

10 feet east of Parallel Universe. As you rap down you will see an obvious right facing dihedral with a finger crack in the corner that ends 3/4 of the way up the cliff. Rap to the base of the dihedral to a small grassy ledge.

If you stand on the Canary Crack buttress that juts out and look east you will see an obvious corner facing you about 30 feet over with a finger crack in it. That's the climb.

Protection [Suggest Change]

A set of nuts down to BD #4. Cams between .3 and 1 with triples of .4s, .5s, and .75s.

The anchor is a .4 and .5 crack - any combination of cams in that range will do.

Photos

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Eric D
Gnarnia
 
Eric D   Gnarnia
 
It is possible that the finger crack has been climbed before but we cleaned a good bit of stuff off. The upper section had a sketchy teeter-totter block on it and had not been climbed. Sep 28, 2015

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