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Routes in The Anvil

Fistful of Steel T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hammer Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Iron Age T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Razor's Edge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 270 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jason Reuben, Mick Schein, Eric Whitbeck
Page Views: 188 total · 5/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Sep 28, 2015
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closure for some areas in the Sandias Details

Description

Fistful of Steel is a sustained 5.10+ thin crack climb, a longer, harder, and headier version of the climbs like Rawhide and Yucca Flower Tower, which it is reminiscent of.

Rap in. The first pitch (5.10d) climbs a shallow R-facing corner, steps left and follows a seam past 2 pins and reaches a bolt near the left arete. Turn a small roof, then turn another one, and gain insecure jams and follow a seam to the belay. If you're trying to hang directionals or something on this pitch, to set a TR without leading it, angle as much to the west (left) as you can, while rappelling.

The 2nd pitch (5.10a) follows cracks to pass through the obvious 4' roof with a 4" crack in it. Yes, that one that you noticed as looking impressive when you rapped over it on the way in. Small gear can protect this if you don't want to bring a big cam.

I copied the Iron Age topo over to this page, which shows Fistful of Steel on it too.

Location

West-most climb on the SW Face of the Anvil.
When looking at the bare rocky point of the Anvil, walk to the right 30' to the next smaller point, and locate the anchors 5' below the lip.

2 rappels: the 1st rappel is 85' (1 rope) to a stance with a bolt and pin, the 2nd is 180' (2 ropes needed, or just TR it).

Protection

Gear to 3" with an optional #4, with extras from TCUs to thin hand size.

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