Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Brandon Workman, Thad Nelson 2015
Page Views: 252 total · 6/month
Shared By: wakaranai on Sep 27, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


1 Opinions

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Description

Just right of Ragged Old Flag. Second to last climb before reaching the "Xin"ladder/platform you will see this mostly bolted line. Stick clip the first bolt for the initial boulder problem. Connect flakes and positive handholds to lower angled terrain which leads to a nice stance below the steepening face. Pull through this second crux using unique, limestone like holds and then a gas-ton to a fractured rail. Enjoy jugs on easier terrain and the nice grippy rock above. The 3 cams listed below will tame the run out above the well protected cruxes.

Protection

8 bolts, 0.75", 0.5", 0.4" cams

Photos

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wakaranai
Mount Vernon, WA
  5.11c
wakaranai   Mount Vernon, WA
  5.11c
This one was especially difficult to grade. It felt 5.12 my first couple attempts but once you figure out what you're aiming for it seemed more like 5.11-

Hope some others might give it a whirl and chime in. No matter what the grade is, it's a highly enjoyable route with unique features for sure! Sep 28, 2015
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
I think the first impression is the best measure of a grade.

I'm glad you mentioned it, and we'll see what others think. Sep 28, 2015
wakaranai
Mount Vernon, WA
  5.11c
wakaranai   Mount Vernon, WA
  5.11c
Agreed John. I always thought ratings should be based on the onsight, but other climbers have disagreed with that notion. As long as it's consistent with the area I suppose. Oct 1, 2015