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Routes in Broken Point

Devious Nature T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snake Hipped Mistress T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Equip Larry Shaffer. FA Chris Hirsch & Tony Schwartz, 2014. FFA Chris Hirsch, belayed by Taylor Lais, 9/2015
Page Views: 162 total, 6/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on Sep 27, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

A wildly exposed arete that Shaffer regrets not finishing. He had 95% of the route complete. Tony and I were able to finish the route without adding any bolts. This line is hard right off the belay, especially gaining the fourth bolt (bad fall potential). After the fifth, go left around corner into crack. Place some gear then three bolts lead to the redpoint crux. Find a small RP placement and exit right to the anchors.

Location

W side of spire. Climbs the arete/dyke. To get to belay, climb Devious Nature first then scramble over. Rap down chimney to the SW, 70m rope. Scramble back to Devious Nature's rap.

Protection

8 bolts
Small rack, Nuts/RPs, micro cams up to .5
Bolted anchor w/ webbing.

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