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Routes in Ireland

Back Crack S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Belfast Breakfast S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corned Beef and Thrash S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
ExtraVertical Activity S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gingers Welcome S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Halfpint S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hanging Harps S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Irish Inche S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Irish Scream S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kiss It S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Luckily Unlucky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Over the Clover S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pain & A Dirty Glass S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pub Crawl [Var], The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Public Enemy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
RICE Pudding S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Secret In The Cellar S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Souless Ginger S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Special Brew S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ten OZ Draft S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Triple Stout S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tullamore Dew S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiskey on Sunday S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: PSobik, JBaker Sept 2015
Page Views: 844 total · 23/month
Shared By: jbak . on Sep 27, 2015
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

Super-steep roped bouldering. A sweet little gem of a problem.

Recommend that belayer use the keeper bolt to avoid getting pulled into the fall line. A 3-foot sling (or chain of draws) is about right.

Stick clip the 1st bolt is okay, 2nd is cheating.

Location

The LEFT-HAND route in The Cellar, a 45-degree overhang about 120 feet right of The Pub.

Protection

5 bolts and Mussys. Plus a keeper bolt for belayer. (3.75 x 3/8 SS)

2nd bolt is 5 x 1/2 SS

Photos

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Mike Kane
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Mike Kane   Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
It's short and crazy-sharp, but every single move on this climb is fantastic! Nov 23, 2015
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
"...short and crazy sharp."

This describes so much of Mt.Lemmon climbing, but it sure is nice weather out there this time of year! Nov 24, 2015
Mike Kane
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Mike Kane   Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
In all fairness there is only one hold on this climb that qualifies as "crazy sharp" -- a juggy flake between the third and fourth bolts. One of my climbing partners remarked that while it would be hard of fall there if you tried, if you somehow did pitch, it would take your fingers clean off...I think he was joking Nov 25, 2015
Josie
  5.12a
Josie  
  5.12a
Short, but totally worth doing--Awesome holds, and as mentioned earlier, cool moves from bottom to top! Jul 6, 2016
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
  5.12b/c
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
  5.12b/c
Didn't really feel like anything was "crazy sharp" like some beaver wall routes. the is a deeply incut section that you bury your fingers behind but you aren't putting much pressure on the crease where your fingers meet your palm so it isn't painful and the chance of falling there are pretty small. Well worth doing as it is on you from start to finish. May 28, 2018

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