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Routes in Ireland

Belfast Breakfast S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corned Beef and Thrash S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gingers Welcome S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Halfpint S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hanging Harps S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Irish Inche S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Irish Scream S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kiss It S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Luckily Unlucky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Over the Clover S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pain & A Dirty Glass S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pub Crawl [Var], The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Public Enemy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Public Hanging (Red-tagged project... until my foot heals ) S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
RICE Pudding S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Secret In The Cellar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Souless Ginger S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Special Brew S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Triple Stout S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tullamore Dew S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiskey on Sunday S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: PSobik, JBaker Sept 2015
Page Views: 638 total · 20/month
Shared By: jbak . on Sep 27, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description [Edit]

Super-steep roped bouldering. A sweet little gem of a problem.

Recommend that belayer use the keeper bolt to avoid getting pulled into the fall line. A 3-foot sling (or chain of draws) is about right.

Stick clip the 1st bolt is okay, 2nd is cheating.

Location [Edit]

The LEFT-HAND route in The Cellar, a 45-degree overhang about 120 feet right of The Pub.

Protection [Edit]

5 bolts and Mussys. Plus a keeper bolt for belayer. (3.75 x 3/8 SS)

2nd bolt is 5 x 1/2 SS

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Mike Kane
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Mike Kane   Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
It's short and crazy-sharp, but every single move on this climb is fantastic! Nov 23, 2015
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
"...short and crazy sharp."

This describes so much of Mt.Lemmon climbing, but it sure is nice weather out there this time of year! Nov 24, 2015
Mike Kane
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Mike Kane   Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
In all fairness there is only one hold on this climb that qualifies as "crazy sharp" -- a juggy flake between the third and fourth bolts. One of my climbing partners remarked that while it would be hard of fall there if you tried, if you somehow did pitch, it would take your fingers clean off...I think he was joking Nov 25, 2015
Josie
  5.12a
Josie  
  5.12a
Short, but totally worth doing--Awesome holds, and as mentioned earlier, cool moves from bottom to top! Jul 6, 2016

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