Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: PSobik, JBaker Sept 2015
Page Views: 868 total · 21/month
Shared By: jbak . on Sep 27, 2015
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Super-steep roped bouldering. A sweet little gem of a problem.

Recommend that belayer use the keeper bolt to avoid getting pulled into the fall line. A 3-foot sling (or chain of draws) is about right.

Stick clip the 1st bolt is okay, 2nd is cheating.

Location

The LEFT-HAND route in The Cellar, a 45-degree overhang about 120 feet right of The Pub.

Protection

5 bolts and Mussys. Plus a keeper bolt for belayer. (3.75 x 3/8 SS)

2nd bolt is 5 x 1/2 SS

Photos

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Mike Kane
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Mike Kane   Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
It's short and crazy-sharp, but every single move on this climb is fantastic! Nov 23, 2015
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
"...short and crazy sharp."

This describes so much of Mt.Lemmon climbing, but it sure is nice weather out there this time of year! Nov 24, 2015
Mike Kane
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Mike Kane   Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
In all fairness there is only one hold on this climb that qualifies as "crazy sharp" -- a juggy flake between the third and fourth bolts. One of my climbing partners remarked that while it would be hard of fall there if you tried, if you somehow did pitch, it would take your fingers clean off...I think he was joking Nov 25, 2015
Josie
  5.12a
Josie  
  5.12a
Short, but totally worth doing--Awesome holds, and as mentioned earlier, cool moves from bottom to top! Jul 6, 2016
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
  5.12b/c
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
  5.12b/c
Didn't really feel like anything was "crazy sharp" like some beaver wall routes. the is a deeply incut section that you bury your fingers behind but you aren't putting much pressure on the crease where your fingers meet your palm so it isn't painful and the chance of falling there are pretty small. Well worth doing as it is on you from start to finish. May 28, 2018