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Routes in Lower Walls

Cleft, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cracker Jack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Flutterby TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Free and Easy T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Half and Half T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Happy Slab TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hidden Magic TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Milk Run T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
No Reverse Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Tree T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Pipe Cleaner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pudding Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shortcake TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toy Surprise TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Your Lead TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 362 total · 13/month
Shared By: Nick AWL on Sep 27, 2015
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

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Description

This is a nice easy trad route. Typical pudding stone found at Hammond Pond. The crack is inconsistent so cam placement can be tricky.

Location

On the left end of the wall this is the second crack (as you face the wall) to the left of Milk Run.

Protection

Standard rack up to 2, with small and medium nuts. For Top rope bring a couple of long slings or webbing to anchor off the trees.

Photos

Arthur Torrey
North Billerica MA
  5.5 PG13
Arthur Torrey   North Billerica MA
  5.5 PG13
Still not sure if this was the actual route, but did something on this wall.

Accessibility is still great. I'd say that mostly I used cams, with a few nuts.

The nuts I used were all in the larger end of the size range. The cams were mostly in the 0.5-5 range, and yes I did use the 4 and 5 in a couple spots! (Keep in mind that I have to make a placement every 6-12".) Most often I was using a 1 or 2. I didn't have a 3 on my rack (the guides said they only had one, and it was used in building an anchor) which was a pain as I had many places that I could have made a better placement if I had been able to use a 3. May 6, 2017
Arthur Torrey
North Billerica MA
  5.5 PG13
Arthur Torrey   North Billerica MA
  5.5 PG13
Not completely positive this was the route I did, but it was definitely something on this wall, and comments would apply to the cracks I saw... Aside from being a slight positive slope, a really nice climb. I did it on a top rope while mock-leading it, and placing all my aid protection. (As a paraplegic adaptive climber, I need to place gear every 6-12") Lots of options for gear placement, but I could have used more medium (2-4") cams. The depth that some of the placements required in order to make smaller gear work made it harder to pull myself up the wall, especially combined with the positive slope.

The HP area is a really NICE climbing area for an 'urban park' and is great for wheelchair accessibility. I was able to drive my power-chair right to the base of the crag and launch out of the chair, just like being in the gym... I did need a minor push to help the chair get up the steepish dirt slope from the trail to the actual base of the crag, but nothing extraordinary. I also had to do a certain amount of dodging rock outcrops in the trail due to low ground clearance, but no problems...

From the parking area it is a right down the trail just a few hundred feet...

The area is pleasant, tree shaded, nice view of the lake below the crag, no graffiti, no significant broken glass or other trash, etc... Definitely not a crap-pit like the Quincy Quarry area...

I look forward to climbing there again, either on this crack or one of the others on this wall. Jun 16, 2016