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Routes in C. Applejack Wall

Ain’t No Sunshine S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Applejack Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Areteouffee S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Big Dog S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bill & Tee’s Excellent Adventure S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buckets of Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corporal Punishent T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Extinguisher S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ice Harvest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Manhatten Project S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Open Project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Orion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rajun’ Cajun S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ridin' Cowgirls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shootist, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stray Dog S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Jim Thurmond high bouldering 1986
Page Views: 462 total · 12/month
Shared By: AaronJ on Sep 26, 2015
Admins: Chris treggE, Dave Hug

You & This Route


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Description

A bouldery start will get you onto the plates that line the face, but you're not out of the bucket yet. Alternate jug hauling the face and thrutching in the wide crack until you come out to the ledge, where you can take a seat and consider your next move.

The anchor/descent is not ideal. You could scramble up the gully and try to find a tree to belay from, but I'm not sure what is available and getting down will be more of a chore. You can also traverse the ledge to the shiny new anchors two routes over and belay from there, but your follower might not be thrilled about the traverse.

Awkward route, but buckets of fun if you're into that kind of thing.

Location

Large dihedral crack on the big ledge.

Protection

Standard rack, big stuff is probably a good idea.

Photos

Tom Atkins
Carbondale, Illinois
Tom Atkins   Carbondale, Illinois
A large(and still living) Cedar tree provides a suitable anchor point above the upper gully section. This section is easy chimney but a fall would be less than ideal, though the same goes for traversing out to either Manhattan project or Bill & Tee's anchors; your choice. May 8, 2016

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