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Routes in Devil's Half Acre

Boned V6 7A
Butt Bump V7 7A+
Cling, The V2 5+
Crankshaft V3 6A
Cranky Piston Baby V2 5+
Death Grips Slab V3-4 6A+
Devil's Traverse V1 5
Dyno Direct V6 7A
Flight of Falcor V4 6B
Go Make Some Babies V3 6A
Junior V1 5
Junior left V0-1 4+
Junior right V0 4
Piston V5 6C
Piston Traverse V5 6C
Pocket, The V4 6B
Toss, The V3 6A
Vill, The V0 4
Wave Full, The V6 7A
Wave Mantle, The V2 5+
Wave, The V2 5+
unnamed V0 V0 4
Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,168 total, 43/month
Shared By: JD Bagert on Sep 26, 2015
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Description

Sit start in the right corner. Work your way up the arete and crimps to the horizontal crack and top out straight up. Popular beta for the starting moves is to match a heel on the right-hand starting hold.

Dyno Direct is an alternative for this climb. Go straight from the sit-start into the horizontal crack without using intermediary holds.

Location

In the main boulder cluster of Devil's Half-Acre (marked on the Sourlands Mountain Preserve map).

Half Acre Boulder
Lat: N 40°28'36" (40.4767)
Lon: W 74°42'17" (-74.7045)

Protection

1-2 pads

Photos

Some friends and I did a variation on this climb this past weekend. Same start as go make some babies, bump right hand high up the arete, bump left hand up to the higher crimp sidepull. Bring your left foot up to that kinda loose flake by the start. Then throw a high right heel hook on the arete, almost as high as your right hand. Then throw your right hand all the way up to the top lip. There is a small knob right at the edge of the lip you can catch. Match hands on that top lip and top out same as go make some babies. The good horizontal crack from go make some babies is off for hands, on for feet for top out though. I'd rate it V4-V5. Feb 21, 2017
James Wen
  V3
James Wen  
  V3
Apparently, there is a V7 version of this climb where you have to go from the start holds to the crack in the middle without using the arete aside from the start hold and heel hook? May 1, 2016