Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Amateur Route Area

Amateur, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Delusions of Grunger (Link Up) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dicken Around S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dodo Bird S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't Push It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fruit Loops S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grunge Fest S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hot For Teacher S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Wish my Girlfriend was this Dirty S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Luc Skywalker S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
My Fuzzy Balls S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
New Tatoo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nocturnal Emissions S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pagan on Sunday S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pee Green S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sara's crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Say No To Bush S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Smarty Pants S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spread Your Eagle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
This Ain't My First Rodeo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wet Dreams S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Luc Ried
Page Views: 479 total, 18/month
Shared By: Luc Ried on Sep 25, 2015
Admins: TylerKC, Kyle Christopher

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start off of a rock to avoid getting mud on your climbing shoes. Campus through the first few moves until you can get your feet on, then continue onto the ledge. This ledge is a good resting place before you embark on the serious end of the climb. Clip the draw on the roof before you leave the ledge. From a huge flake bust out a dynamic reach to a slopey ledge to begin the crux. With some interesting foot beta continue through slopers until you reach the a good resting hold at about 25 feet. From here, the climbing is easier, but you'll be dealing with the pump from the moves below.
Note: The crux is proving to be height dependent

Location

About 10 feet right of Spread Your Eagle.

Protection

Fixed draws

Photos

Luc Ried
Batesville, AR
 
Luc Ried   Batesville, AR
 
I'd be interested to see the beta you used, I'll adjust the grade to a more appropriate rating. I did a repeat the other day and thought it felt easier with some different feet that I'd used on the FA, I also skipped the hard clip on my repeat. I still feel its solid 5.12, at least for those of us who have to use the dynamic beta that I have to use. I felt it harder than wet dreams, at least for me. We will see where the grade sits Oct 5, 2015
aubrey Joe
5.12b/c
aubrey Joe  
5.12b/c
This route is probably much harder for shorter people. Being tall, I found it to be easier than 13a, requiring no dynamic moves (match after the undercling, then right hand bumps to an eventual jug, the crux being: keeping your feet from swinging out by toeing into the undercling). I'm really bad at rating, but I was thinking a really hard 11. 11d? But again, that crux move could be far more difficult for shorter people. I've had plenty of my own routes downgraded, so maybe I'm compensating and it's really a 12, who knows. Also, I skipped a difficult clip, the second bolt on the roof. There are plenty of bolts without that one. Plus the anchors are now a more appropriate length.

Also, nice work on the FA, Luc, no matter the grade. Oct 5, 2015