Type: Trad, Alpine, 1550 ft (470 m), 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Musiyenko, Vitaliy & Brian Prince
Page Views: 3,179 total · 30/month
Shared By: SirTobyThe3rd M on Sep 25, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

The route takes a proud line up the middle of Cherubim Dome's south face. The granite is immaculate. The climbing itself is super fun and has it all from slab, juggy face, cracks, pockets. Hard and easy. Most belays are in great stances. Don't let the 5.10 R scare you, the R climbing is on easier ground (nothing harder than 5.9, with nothing harder than 5.8 having significant runouts). Almost all pitches are rope stretchers, so be ready for it to be close. 6/5 stars for sure! Incredible route! :)
If someone wants to place a few more protection bolts, email me and I can tell you where it would make sense.

Pitch 1 - 5.7 or 5.8 - 200 ft. Climb up towards the white streak picking the path that makes sense to you the most. There are cool little pockets and cracks in unexpected places where you can plug in the pro. This pitch is runout, but the climbing is positive and mostly easy. Belay in the left facing corner (gear belay).
Pitch 2 - 5.8 R - 200 ft. Plug in some pro before starting up the smooth white streak and run it out to and past the single bolt. The climbing is not too bad. Belay from gear in a left facing corner about 40 ft below the big overhang.
Pitch 3 - 5.10 (5.8-9 R) - 200 ft. Climb up and left from the belay, passing a section of unprotected 5.8ish slab to the first bolt. Continue left, clip the second bolt and pull the first overhang (extend the draws to avoid rope drag). Plug in a small cam and a tiny nut in a few unexpected spots, traverse right below the roof to a spot with big pockets/jugs. Pull over the roof and continue left on these sloping jugs to a bolt. After clipping the bolt trend right, than back up and left to the belay. There is a crack right below the anchor that can take a #2 camalot, but at that point, you might as well climb up to the anchor (two bolts next to the white streak).
Pitch 4: 5.9 - 200 ft. Climb up the streak, step left and plug in some gear in a crack. Continue up the streak for the rest of the pitch. There is a cool crack that takes gear. Cool knobs too, fun! Gear belay.
Pitch 5: 5.7 - 200 ft. From the gear belay in the crack, traverse left on easy face. There is some pro on the traverse (small cams/nuts). Once you join the prominent groove/crack that leads up climb up a ways till it makes sense to belay. Gear belay in a good stance.
Pitch 6: 5.7-8 R - 200 ft. Climb up this groove and once you are close to the beginning of the headwall traverse left till you can make a gear belay on finger size/medium gear. Decent stance.
Pitch 7: 5.10 - 200 ft. Climb up, place some pro and traverse left to the prominent groove/crack that leads up to the prominent crack in the headwall. Once you are in the crack, continue up and belay left of the giant flakes that sound hollow. They don't move when pulled on, but I wouldn't belay from them. Another gear belay.
Pitch 8: 5.9-10 - 150 ft. Climb straight up the fun cracks. Pass a few roofs and bulges till you encounter the final bulge on the summit ridge. Yellow metolius protected that move well, but it is optional, because you can belay around the corner from this overhang and scramble another 60 feet to the summit.

Enjoy the awesome views towards Hamilton Domes and into Tamarack Lake drainage. One of the most scenic summits in the High Sierra!

Descent: Scramble straight down the back side for a hundred feet or so (3rd class) and continue east down the ridge that leads to slabs or a gully that will take you down to your stuff. In the early season and after thunderstorms there is a stream here and you don't have to bring water up to the base. Even though rather be safe than sorry.

Location Suggest change

Once you reach the approach slabs trend towards the middle of the South Face. We scrambled to the prominent tree and climbed higher up the 3rd class slabs. You are aiming for the obvious white streak that splits the face in two.

Protection Suggest change

Double rack from tiny to #1 Camalot. Single # 2-3 Camalots. Subbing 2nd set of small cams with offsets could be useful. Set of small to medium nuts (offset useful at times).