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Routes in Leftovers

Alive and Kicking T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Awkward Teenage Dating T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Captain Fist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Legs T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
I'm Telling Mom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Mellow Yellow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prime Rib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Reptillian Wall T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Salmonella Smorgasbord T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
See Snake Bounce T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Temperature's Rising T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Throat, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Too Much Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Much Turkey!!! T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild Cherry T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 145 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 233 total, 9/month
Shared By: Dan Hammond on Sep 24, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route has it all, beginning with a chimney, progressing into an offwidth with a few face moves interspersed, and ending with hand/fist jams. It goes at 5.7, but I would just add the word "burly" to that rating. I found it to be a very fun climb with solid protection the whole way. The crux is probably making the slightly awkward moves to pull yourself out of the chimney right at the beginning of the climb.

Location

The route starts just right of the classic Mellow Yellow route at Leftovers and ends with a belay (no fixed anchors) at the same keyhole Mellow Yellow ends at. Be careful not to go too far right of Mellow Yellow or you'll find yourself on a 5.9 start that links up with I'm Telling Mom.

To descend, pass through the keyhole and rock-hop your way down the gully that trends southeast between the south face of Turkey Rock and Leftovers.

Protection

Standard rack up to #4 cam; doubles up to #2/3, a set of nuts, and - for those of you who appreciate a good hex placement - there are a few places for those as well. Save some small cams for the anchor.

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