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Routes in Mystery Spires

Behind The Scenes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Rib T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Enigma with a Stigma T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Hidden Agenda T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Box T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ramshackler, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Veiled Virgin T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Chris Hirsch & Harrison Teuber, Sept. '15 (Ground-up)
Page Views: 188 total, 7/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on Sep 23, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

A fun, little adventure with vast views of Little Devil's Tower, The Marina, Harney Peak, and even Rushmore. The second pitch is the real prize, and the third is the crux.

1) 5.0 60' Scramble up easiest path, aiming for chimney notch against 'Hidden Spire'. Build belay at ledge. Watch for loose blocks. I'll be honest, not the best pitch around.

2) 5.10+ 100' Take obvious crack that follows closely to the arete. Cool, short crux at the top of dihedral, followed by easier terrain that leads to a nice belay ledge. Natural anchor.

3) 5.10+ PG13 40' Traverse straight right from belay, getting good gear in horizontals. Climb up once ramp starts steepening. Find more gear out left before heading into short corner above. Excellent gear protects the bulge pull. Single bolt protects the finishing moves.

Location

Located on N side of the Mystery Spires. Rap into gully behind the climb and scramble down.

Protection

Doubles to #3
Singles of micro cams
Nuts/RP's
One Bolt

Photos

Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Cool looking route. I was staring up at this over Labor Day weekend wondering.........? Sep 24, 2015