Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches
FA: Chris Hirsch & Harrison Teuber, Sept. '15 (Ground-up)
Page Views: 687 total · 8/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on Sep 23, 2015
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

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A fun, little adventure with vast views of Little Devil's Tower, The Marina, Harney Peak, and even Rushmore. The second pitch is the real prize, and the third is the crux.

1) 5.0 60' Scramble up easiest path, aiming for chimney notch against 'Hidden Spire'. Build belay at ledge. Watch for loose blocks. I'll be honest, not the best pitch around.

2) 5.10+ 100' Take obvious crack that follows closely to the arete. Cool, short crux at the top of dihedral, followed by easier terrain that leads to a nice belay ledge. Natural anchor.

3) 5.10+ PG13 40' Traverse straight right from belay, getting good gear in horizontals. Climb up once ramp starts steepening. Find more gear out left before heading into short corner above. Excellent gear protects the bulge pull. Single bolt protects the finishing moves.


Located on N side of the Mystery Spires. Rap into gully behind the climb and scramble down.


Doubles to #3
Singles of micro cams
One Bolt