PRINT: Rock Climb Bridge of Sighs, San Francisco Bay Area

Bridge of Sighs

5.10c R, Sport, 2 pitches,

Avg: 2.8 from 24 votes
FA: Todd Worsfold and Sean Burke
California > San Francisco B… > E Bay Area > Mt Diablo SP > Pine Canyon > Mammoth Rock

Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Castle Rock in Pine Canyon is closed for peregrine falcon nesting season, from February 1 through July 31st every year. All other Mount Diablo area crags are open to climbing. The news release is linked here parks.ca.gov/NewsRelease/493.

Description

Bridge of Sighs to the top of Mammoth rock.
There are two starts to this climb. The left start (Africanized 5.11b) climbs an overhung traverse out of the cave with a thrilling run out to join the bolted line.
The right start is easier and gives an over all grade 5.10c Expect some moderate run outs and hollow, fragile rock throughout.
Could be done in one 60 meters pitch.
Or you can break it in two 27 meters pitches by using bolted anchors station in the cave.
Bolts and chains are camouflaged.
Run out portion on second pitch is on SUPER easy 5.6. All the 5.10 moves are well-protected. On top of second pitch belay from the hole and walk off to descend.

Location

In center of Mammoth rock, you can see the bolts right from Peregrine/Raptors nest route

Protection

7-9 draws, long slings

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sean Burke on the FA of Bridge of Sighs.

Todd Worsfold on face first pitch of the FA of Bridge of Sighs.

Todd Worsfold on the FA of "Bridge of Sighs", "Africanized start". (Photo Sean Burke)

Todd Worsfold on the first pitch of the FA of Bridge of Sighs.

Sean Burke on the FA of "Bridge of Sighs"

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Aaron Hope
San Luis Obispo

The first pitch is Not R rated. At most the bolt is about 5 feet below you when you're making a 5.8 move to get to the next bolt. The head factor comes from being able to trust that the rock wont break. Its pretty solid on this route, but remember to pull down and not out.

Really recommend the 11b start. Super solid rock and very well protected. The traverse over to the Bridge line is also protected by a bolt at the start of the traverse so it's pretty safe (the description makes it sound dangerous) Dec 5, 2016

Austin Donisan
San Mateo, CA

The 11b start is blocked by a hidden wasp/bees nest in a key hold above the first bolt. They came out after about 15 seconds of grabbing the hold.

Is this the source of the "Africanized" name? Aug 6, 2017

Maximilian Tagher
San Francisco, CA

Halfway up the climb there's a big undercling. Stay towards the left part of it/be careful: the rock to the right is big and could easily be pulled off the wall. This route is pretty chossy in general so be careful about falling rocks. Oct 22, 2017

Eric Leonard
santa cruz

5.10c R

Thought this route was better than proboscis. A bit runout and some fragile sections but good footwork will take you to the top. Throw an alpine on the bolt over the big undercling section, your second will love you Nov 9, 2018

Forrest L.

5.10b PG13

Not very run-out on first pitch. Second pitch is runout 5.6 garbage after the first fun, steeper moves -- should be skipped in favor of directisimma which is 3-star. Jan 25, 2020

Peter B
Austin, TX

5.10c PG13

As others said, not runout, but also not modern sport-bolted. Maybe PG-13. Super fun pitch, get on it! Nov 15, 2022