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Exacto

5.10d PG13, Sport, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 15 votes
FA: Pierre Jordache & Gabriel Lussier (2001)
International > N America > Canada > Quebec > 15. Laurentides > Montagne d'Argent > 19 - Le Fou
Warning Access Issue: Access fees required DetailsDrop down

Description

Start at the base of Cracker Joe, then move right along the obvious undercling feature. Follow the flake as it becomes vertical, but be sure to save something for the crux as the feature thins out.
A beautiful climb with serious ground fall potential at the 2nd bolt. Shorter climbers may want to consider stick-clipping the 2nd bolt if climbing near their limit.

Commencez à la base de Cracker Joe, puis déplacez-vous vers la droite le long de la prise inversé évidente. Suivez l'écaille quand elle devient verticale, mais n'oubliez pas d'épargner de l'énergie pour le crux à mesure que les prises s'amincissent.
Une belle ascension avec un fort potentiel de chute au sol a la 2ème plaquette. Les grimpeurs plus courts voudront peut-être envisager de stick-clipper la deuxième plaquette s'ils grimpent près de leur limite.

Location

4th route (2nd sport line) from the far left of the crag. Look for the large flake feature to the right of a beautiful crack.

4ème voie (2ème ligne sportive) de l'extrême gauche du rocher. Recherchez la grosse écaillage à droite d'une belle fissure.

Protection

Sport. 6 bolts & anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Base of Exacto.
[Hide Photo] Base of Exacto.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jerome St-Michel
Montreal, QUÉBEC
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] I think the climb has been retrobolted, I haven't fell this one was PG-13 at all Apr 23, 2017
Guillaume Fortin
Montréal
 
[Hide Comment] I am a short climber and the second bolt was definitely hard to reach, you may have to engage yourself out of the crack before to clip it. A fall in the stance I had to place myself would have definitely meant a bad fall, either on the small ledge below or maybe even a ground fall given the bolts current uneven spacing. Still a great climb but would recommend to assess risks versus your height and capabilities adequately on this one. Sep 16, 2023