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Routes in Lower Blair III

A Dream of Fat Antelope T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
A Horse Will Have To Do T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arete Already T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bragging About Jesus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bullwinkle T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Damit T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Empty Suit T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Five Finger Discount T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Go Left, Old Man, Go Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hard to Believe T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Inconvenient Angles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inferno Fog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inner Notch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Intimidation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jogging Direct T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jogging to Vedauwoo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Femme Takeda T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Ledge of the World, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Middle Notch T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Outer Dark T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Outer Notch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Penetration T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pretty Girls with Long Knives T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Putter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Random Crystals T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scratch the Surface T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit Talk (aka Gameday) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Sketch Palsy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of a Wanted Man T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Sweet Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Take 5 T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unicorn Exterminator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unremembered T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: James Arnold, Lauren Austin, psyched Will Eslinger (SF)
Page Views: 659 total · 18/month
Shared By: Warrior on Sep 18, 2015
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This Shit Talk is complicated, crappy, and all kinds of kooky!

Start with a mantel up on grotty ledge near past an reddish, quartz dike to an obvious, undercut flake. Work this to the right until you can access the long horizontal crack.

Powerjam this horizontal fissure straight left for 40', passing through a wide section with kneebar/invert through the poo. A crux move comes an invert & pivot (can also be done with core intensive kneebars) then grabbing a big block of dried dung and exiting the wide.

After this section, a 1" foothold provides stance enough to shake out and switch ropes (to mitigate drag). Pump through seasonal green slime on fists and licheny feet to access the meat of the route, a pretty overhanging hand crack. Fire this, and you are mostly done....

An easy but unbolted face for 25' guards the top. A fall from the top would probably be fatal, but I propose an R rating with a good belayer. If you've made it this far, you probably wouldn't fall...one would certainly hope....

  • ***If anyone wants to take the R out and put in bolts to make this route safe, that is fine with the FA team.****

I repeat:

  • ***If anyone wants to take the R out and put in bolts to make this route safe, that is fine with the FA team.****

Also, the optimal anchor placement is probably on the gigantic boulder that sits above the handcrack...again, permission is given to bolt both the anchor and the face to make this a safer route!!!

This route was sent on the last day of a trip and the first day of the NFL 2015 season!~ Go Broncos!

This route is not for fecal-phobics! It features one of the Voo's "crappiest cruxes", more than likely, the crappiest....

2 rope technique is suggested. A true "anti-classic"....

Location

This is on Blair III, on the SW corner. Look for the striking overhanging hand crack about 34' off the ground, 100 yards to the right of near where you can scramble up the formation. Then look at the 50' horizontal crack you need to do to access the overhanging hand crack. There is a reddish dike angling up and right at the start. Another obvious marker is the widest part of the horizontal crack with a rather large (3.5 foot) block of guano hanging out (crux).

Protection

A full rack to 6". Very large hexes or tubes may take some of the danger out. Weird sideways fall forces and very odd crack geometry may make for a pretty heady redpoint. I pinkpointed, because it seems pretty dangerous and I didn't have a bunch of big hexes around. There are no anchors, see the description....

Also, you may want some Saniwipes or hand sanitizer once you are done with this crap...

Photos

Warrior
Rock City, GA
  5.11d
Warrior   Rock City, GA
  5.11d
Personal grade is 5.12b. Trying a new system at the Voo. Also translates to 5.11d+++. Sep 18, 2015
Patrick Kingsbury
Anthem, AZ
Patrick Kingsbury   Anthem, AZ
A stunner of a line. Congrats, James! Sep 19, 2015
cstebbins024
Laramie, WY
cstebbins024   Laramie, WY
I was surprised to see tick marks on this line. The poo is a big deterrent. Was there any consideration to come in from the left? Probably much easier but less dangerous and the two rope situation could be avoided. Nov 1, 2017
Warrior
Rock City, GA
  5.11d
Warrior   Rock City, GA
  5.11d
Thx, Pat! Cstebbins-I surmise an original aid line went that way - I pulled an old ring angle out of the vertical crack near the top, wild stuff. It was a #lifegoal to find an actual ring angle and remove for the collection. It joined an original "Nose" bolt hanger from Warren Harding.

The left entrance looked a bit scaly to me and not as "un"aesthetic.

Plus I don't mind 2 ropes if it is for a magnificently horrible route like this piece of crap...jmo Nov 3, 2017

More About Shit Talk (aka Gameday)

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