Avg: 4 from 3 votes
|FA:||S. Uramatsu, S. Matsukata, E. Steuri, S. Brawand 1927|
|Page Views:||5,523 total · 73/month|
|Shared By:||Kris Gorny on Sep 16, 2015|
|Admins:||Dan Flynn, Mark P.|
From Ostegg Hut, follow a faint trail with cairns that ascends very loose and steep slopes towards the saddle on the ridge proper. Follow the ridge using occasional bolts for protection or rappels. At some point crawl through a cave leading through to the other side of the ridge, go up a fixed rope (the rope was frayed when we did it), followed by further traversing. Drop down (we rappelled) into the notch and climb 2 pitches that go about 5.9. The first pitch is the hardest but it is fully equipped with fixed pro. Second pitch is also equipped and ends with an iron rod anchor. From here follow the ridge to Mittellegi Hut.
Both huts require reservation that can be obtained at Grindelwald Sports in Grindelwald. Ostegg Hut has no guardian: code is needed to retrieve the key. Payments are based on honor system: drop cash for the stay and for what you drink (wine/beer) in the box inside the Hut. Unlike Ostegg Hut, Mittellegi Hut fills quick so make sure to reserve few days ahead of time.
Climbing the Eiger from Ostegg is a 2-3 day climb, so co-ordinate with the weather. We found the "MeteoSwiss" app to be very accurate in weather forecast (search weather for Jungfraujoch).
We brought few medium cams,a set of nuts, 8 alpine draws and few 48" slings. A single 60m 1/2 rope was adequate (we doubled it for the 5.9 section). In late August, there was no need for ice gear but in earlier season ice screws may be needed (as well as for the upper Mittellegi).
Crampons and mountaineering axe for the summit ridge are a must (also for descent and glacier travel to Jungfraujoch/Monch Hut or West Flank in earlier season, depending which way you go).