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Routes in Two Eagle Peak

Diamond, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 639 total · 17/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Sep 15, 2015
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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A not climbed very often semi-classic - which has some loose sections to negotiate.

The triangular face has a ramp which runs diagonally from the bottom left corner to right of what looks like the top. There's a shattered wide chimney at the start which as some loose rock, climb this and follow the ramp up and rightwards, with some high exposure, for a few pitches, route finding is a challenge towards the end of the ramp, finding the path of least resistance until the right ridge of the face can be followed leftwards to the top of the face.

From here there's a towered ridge which leads to the summit, which will require more pitches/simul-climbing.

Descent from the summit is via the Class 3 East Ridge.

If pressed for time one can descend a gully between the top of the face and the towered ridge westwards to a steep drop off, where a 100' rappel gains less technical ground.


Follow the faint Jigsaw Pass Trail, the route starts on the left side of the face.


Standard trad rack of nuts and cams, no need to double up.


Ian McEleney
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Ian McEleney   Mammoth Lakes, CA
This route is a fun adventure for folks wanting a a route with real alpine feel and length at a low technical difficulty. We found the occasional piton on the "rightward trending ramp". Near where the ramp ends at the right edge of the giant triangular face is a good looking crack system that's more like 5.9. Ignore it and follow the path of least resistance like the description says. After this was some classic Sierra ridge climbing and a fun little boulder problem onto the summit block. Nov 11, 2015
D. Evans
Tustin, California
D. Evans   Tustin, California
The Diamond is a pretty classic route! Todd Battey, Margy Floyd, Derek Kum and I climbed it two days after Todd and I climbed Dark Star. Needless to say it was one of the best Sierra weekends of my life. It being 5.6 I thought we could probably simulclimb the whole thing.However, it turned out to be a bit more real than anticipated.When the broad "Diamond" shaped lower part joined the knife edge upper part I was unable to see where the so called 5.6 went.I ended up leading a thin crack pitch that was more like 5.9/10. 8/1997. It is a worthy choice! Sep 10, 2018 Oct 4, 2018

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