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Tunnel of Love T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown (5.10 Slab) T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown (5.10 overhang) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown (5.11 face) T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown (5.12) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 56 total, 2/month
Shared By: David Bruneau on Sep 15, 2015
Admins: Phil Stennett

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Description

The best bolted route at the Talc Mine. Climb the slab past a bolt to a diagonal crack (gear). Climb the diagonal crack for 10 feet until the second bolt can be reached via good holds. Follow the line of bolts past a vertical section with precarious climbing (crux) to easy ground. Scramble to the top, placing a couple pieces of gear on the way.

Location

The middle bolted line on the slab/face

Protection

6 bolts, gear, long slings. Top anchor has no rap hardware, can easily be reached from the top. Bring loads of cordalette, the rock has sharp edges near the lip.

Gear beta: Blue and yellow tcu size for the diagonal crack, larger camalots for the top (any two cams from .5 to #3 should work)

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