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Routes in Torre N'lundi - Sentinel Tower

Bare Hug Arete S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Birdman Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Face (Torre N'lundi) S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Type: Sport, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Open Project. Equipped: Maury Birdwell Sept 2015
Page Views: 346 total · 11/month
Shared By: MauryB on Sep 15, 2015
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Description

A striking line up the blunt, NE arete of the Sentinel Tower. Our "mega project" during our two week romp through the country. Unfortunately we had only had 3 days at Pedras Negras, and it took two full days just to bolt this line. Leaving only our final half day to attempt the first pitch.

The first pitch starts with a little hop to gain a sloping jug, then up the obvious crack-like feature, stepping left as it peters out and gaining a semi-restful stance under the bulge. Then its a V8ish crux through the bulge past a removable bolt/loose bolt combo (very difficult to clip on the go), ending at a thank god jug. From here some crumbly 11+ leads to the anchor. 35 meters. Honnold came close to sending and we estimate this pitch at around 5.13b/c.

The second pitch needs to be sussed and have bolts added for its first half, as well as a second anchor bolt at the top. We ran out of time! This pitch is roughly 30 meters and looks like it will also be in the 5.13 range.

NOTE: The addition of a final bolt to eliminate the runout on P1 would be welcome. There is also a .75 placement in a three finger pocket I used mid way on P2 while equipping - might as well add a bolt to free up the hold and make it a full sport line.

Location

Follows the overhanging arete on the NE side of the tower. Start from the boulder a few feet off the wall. Stick clip recommended as the start is a bit sporty.

From the lip an 80m rappel gets you down (not sure a 70 would make it). You can also romp 20m up the licheny slab to the summit and rappel the other route.

Protection

Bolts, anchors. Needs addition of bolts on P2 and additional anchor bolt. See above.

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