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Routes in Pedra Escrita / Writing Stone

Bare Claw T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Meatgrinder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roadside Attraction T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Alex Honnold, Maury Birdwell
Page Views: 119 total · 3/month
Shared By: MauryB on Sep 15, 2015
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Description

A beautifully striking crack that looks like it's going to be a pleasant outing of casual jams. Unfortunately, as the name suggests, it has some serious bite. The large quartz crystals in the crack are like spiked little vises on your hands. Alex and I thought it was probably the most painful pitch of rock climbing either of us had ever done.

Start with strenuous high step layback, you can get a high .75 to protect this. Stay with it for a few moves to a good fingerlock where you can place some good gear and get ready to grit and bear it for the next 100 feet.

Taped hands didn't seem to help much, perhaps some lightweight boxing gloves?

Location

South face, opposite aspect of Roadside Attraction, facing the village.

Protection

A finger sized piece or two, triples of .75-#2 camalot, maybe a #3 for the top/directional. Two bolt anchor (no quicklinks)

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