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Routes in Exit Gorge

Apapacho S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crown Dancer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
El Patron T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Electra Glide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Frog Leg Squimney T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Horn, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hornet Swarm T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Master Splinter S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nefertiti S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: M. Rangel, Ryan Chamberlain
Page Views: 147 total · 4/month
Shared By: manuel rangel on Sep 14, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Park on pullout and do not enter gate, if open. Details

Description [Edit]

Begin on left side of 15' pillar about 50 yards right of Horn Crack; follow crack to ledge and rest before tackling crux overhung shallow chimney (crux). Easy climbing to the top.

Location [Edit]

Fifty yards or so right of the Horn crack are two wide cracks. This is the right one; look for pine tree at top.

Protection [Edit]

Protection is good but tricky. A chockstone (you can wrap a sling around it) protects the crux. A #3 is best just past crux in overhead pocket in the chimney.

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