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Routes in Mount Abbot

North Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade II
FA: Brower, Voge, Clyde - July 1934
Page Views: 370 total · 11/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Sep 11, 2015
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

The easiest way from the east is a fun alpine adventure.

From Treasure Lakes hike/scramble up to Treasure Saddle, then cross the glacier/snowfield northwards heading for the wide mouth of the couloir (base of couloir can also be accessed from Mills Lake). Climb moderate snow up the couloir until about halfway when a ledge system to the right allows you to escape and scramble up to the crest of the ridge. Follow the ridge south, it becomes knife edged and exposed in places, then relents and become easier across the summit slope to the top.

Best done in early season after a good cold night. Later on suncups appear on the glacier and make travel a tad tiresome, especially upon the descent. Nice and alpine with snow on the summit slope.

Descend by the same route.

Location [Suggest Change]

Wide couloir on the right side of the east face.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Helmet, ice axe and crampons.

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