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Routes in Upper Slab and Upper Wall

Ancient Via Ferrata T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
Escape Hatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Faust T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gargoyle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moraviana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Off-Width Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Upper Slab Routes T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 446 total, 17/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Sep 10, 2015
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

Under MtProject guidelines you can't call the climbs on the Upper Slab Top Rope climbs (to be a TR you have to be able to set it up without technical climbing), but essentially this is what they are. I used the 5.4 rating for the access climb, but the climbs themselves are more interesting. (One could use the Via Ferrata route for even easier access.)

Once one leads up the right-facing corner on the left of the Upper Slab (5.3-5.4, perhaps stepping right onto the slab at the top for easiest climbing) the slab's 3 or 4 climbs can be TR'd with a single rope off double bolt anchors and/or the old Via Ferrata hardware, backed up.

Line 1 - About 10 ft right of the corner approx 5.5-5.6

Line 2 - Bit further right - about 5.6-5.7

Line 3 - further right yet, some small cracks about 5.7-5.8, some "straight up" variation(s) may be 5.9

Location

On the loop road park at either Bubble Rock parking (and walk about 5-10 min south on the main trail towards Jordan Pond) or park 1/4Mi. south at a much smaller pull-over lot.
From the pull-over lot, walk down the stone steps, join the main trail and walk south (left) 75-100 feet to a well worn climber's path on the right. Up to the climber's register.
The path moves up and left on talus, reaching the cliff at Lower Slabs. Continue about 50-75 ft to where a 20ft scramble leads to the base of Upper Slabs.

Protection

Usual rack for access climb, slings for bolted anchor and for directionals

Photos

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
 
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
 
Agreed ! Oct 19, 2015
Gunks Jesse
Shawangunk Township, NY
 
Gunks Jesse   Shawangunk Township, NY
 
Not that it matters at a 5.4 grade, but I've led harder 5.2s at the Gunks to set up TR there. I led it on all nuts. Top section under the anchor doesn't protect so be ready for a 20 foot (??) run out over easy ground. Easy access for some fun slab TRing, but mainly worth doing for an incredible view. Oct 19, 2015