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Trad, 1500 ft, 19 pitches, Grade IV,
Avg: 3.1 from 10
FA: Tyler Philips, Robbie Colbert and friends
> Zion NP
> Bridge Mountain
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures
Closures in effect March 1 Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:
ACL Arete is a good route that climbs the right side of Bridge Mountain. As a long 5.10 route in Zion, this is safe with generally excellent rock and a couple of great pitches. The full route is 19 pitches, but many parties stop after P10.
P1 28m 5.10+: Awesome entrance moves through an overhang into a featured finger crack. Two bolts. Bolted belay.
P2+P3 45m 5.9-: Start up the bushy corner then move left following bolts to fixed belay.
P4 30m 5.10+: Excellent rock, fun moves and an airy position make this a great pitch. Fully bolt protected with a fixed belay. There is an alternate bolted pitch to the right with blue hangers.
P5 25m 5.10+: Follow the corner to the first bolt then angle left to the large pod / chimney looming above. The crux protects well with gear.
P6 30m 5.8: Climb the featured chimney to the choss stuffed gully and either belay at the intermediate anchor out right or just clip it to keep the rope from running over the rubble and finish the pitch following the bolt line.
P7 28m 5.10-: Follow bolts up the face to a fixed belay.
P8 30m 5.10-: Climb the featured face with pro in the corner to the line of bolts up the face. Easily linked into P9.
P9 15m 5.9: Clip the bolts up the crispy face. Otherwise follow the crack system up and right.
P10 22m 5.9: Move right of the arete and climb the crack with a couple of bolts.
I did not climb the upper 9 pitches, so have nothing to contribute regarding them.
A single set from fingers to #3 camalot with a couple extra in the .5-#2 camalot range. Stoppers are useful. A bunch of slings and draws. One 60 m rope.