Type: Trad
FA: Alan Watts 1984
Page Views: 732 total · 18/month
Shared By: Jon Rhoderick on Sep 9, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

This route is the hardest route at Smith with zero fixed lead gear. First climbed by Alan Watts during a breakout 5 month period where he went from FA'ing 12c to 13c, Masquerade has mostly sat forgotten as just another sandbagged thin crack, but the movement, position, and protection of the climb are nothing less than perfect.

Start off with some technical stemming off the ledge. A brief shake leads to an amazing crux on 'make-believe' holds. A complete rest after the crux allows you to remain fresh for the finishing tips and finger crack that stays on you until you clip the chains.

Location

In Jungleland, keep going until you reach a large rock to stage gear on and a bolted column, then look for the crack in the dihedral.

Protection

Pro to #4 Metolius, offset micro nuts key.

Photos

bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
I'm not surprised to see the suggested difficultly jump by two letters... AW certainly was rocketing through the grades when this was established- during those rare and sweet times everything feels easy;) Sep 9, 2015
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
  5.12+
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
  5.12+
This thing is all time. One of the top 10 5.12 gear climbs in the region. Not sure about the hardest? But whatever. No offset brass required. Just standard small wires. May 11, 2018