Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Kevin Capps
Page Views: 1,734 total · 42/month
Shared By: Derek Young on Sep 8, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

37 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details
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One of my friends says, "it's hyperclassic" when a route is a must do. The guidebook shows 4 stars and friends agree, so I'm posting this for them and for me. Give this one a shot. You can hang and retrieve your draws from the 5.9, so nothing can be lost.

Scamper up the ramper from the base of the fixed line to snag two bolts for safety status before climbing vertical. Trusting and semi-awkward moves for the takeoff from the ramp gets you into some great movement.

As you get up a few bolts and you're on the horizontal jug rests above, look right. As you to start getting to the same height as the anchors for the fixed line, start heading a bit more right because you are finishing and heading to the same anchors as the 5.9 "Fly High". Trending left and continuing into the 5.11 "Land of the Lost" would certainly make things interesting.


Head down the loose, crumbly area to the fixed line. Rap the fixed line to the nice staging area below. Fly Low starts by climbing back up the ramp and clipping two bolts on the way before going vertical. If you start climbing immediately at the base of the fixed line, you'll be setting out on "Land of the Lost" or its trad variation by the same name.


10 bolts.


The best 5.12, maybe even the best route I've done in the canyon yet. Sep 9, 2015
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
Thanks! It is one of my favorites as well! Sep 9, 2015
The left hand crimp at the crux broke. I was able to get through it making a big move there, but it might be a touch harder now. May 29, 2016
I was wondering why my old beta wasn't working.... Found new beta, which works but may be a slight bit harder. Jul 11, 2016
Parker Wrozek
Denver, CO
Parker Wrozek   Denver, CO
This route is fantastic. Those sharp crimps to big moves are brutal.

Got all the moves down, just need to link it now. Thanks for putting this one in.

Not sure what the old beta was, but I think I can see where the hold broke and could have made it a bit easier. It is a big move off those tiny crimps now though for sure. Oct 8, 2016
Christian Mason
Westminster CO
Christian Mason   Westminster CO
I'd propose 12b for this, by the standards of CCC.

I climbed both it and Badgersaurus the same day, and I thought this was a full grade harder than Badgersaurus.
IMO it's also significantly harder than Convicted Felon at Monkey House. Jun 1, 2018