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Routes in Charge the Farm

Buy the Farm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charge the Farm! S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chipmunks on Espresso S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
red ants T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
scam artist T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: G. Kuchyt / J. Chartrand July 2014
Page Views: 180 total, 7/month
Shared By: Greg Kuchyt on Sep 8, 2015
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

Start about 15 feet down and left of Charge the Farm! at a slabby face that leads to an left-leaning overlap and left-facing corner. Face climb through a couple of overlaps until the 5th bolt. Trend up and right past a stopper placement and some dirtier rock to a small ledge with a bolt and a small overlap above. Pass the overlap (many options) ultimately aiming for a finger crack slot above the right side of the overlap (TCUs/tri-cams helpful). A final bolt protects a thought provoking exit to the shared anchor with Charge the Farm!.

Location

15 ft left of Charge the Farm!

Descent: Rappel

Protection

7 bolts, a large stopper and an (optional?) finger-sized TCU/tri-cam
Shared the fixed anchor of Charge the Farm!

Photos

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Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
 
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
 
Can probably be done as a bolt-only route by those comfortable at the grade. The trad gear makes it very well protected for the fledgling leader.

The name came from the fact that on the first ascent the route took a circuitous route to the current finish with some dubious gear. It was joked that one shouldn't slip as the outcome might not be ideal. The proximity to Charge the Farm! led to jokes about "buying the farm" and a discussion about which use of the word "charge" was meant given the economic climate.

The last two bolts were added later to ensure the line was a well protected moderate as the rest of the cliff is well-protected moderates. Sep 8, 2015