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Routes in Haw Creek West (Valinor)

Broken English T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Diving Bell and the Butterfly, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Green Hornet T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost My Lizard S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Remorse S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Steep Show S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft, Grade V
FA: Clay Frisbie, Chandler Schooler
Page Views: 237 total, 9/month
Shared By: K Gustafson on Sep 8, 2015
Admins: TylerKC

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Description

A sustained 5.10C on positive holds. Get through the V3-4 boulder problem move then bash the overhanging jugs to the last bolt. Pull a spicy move off some pockets and climb easy terrain to the anchors. Beta: Don't slow down.

Some chossy sections. Make sure people are not below the climber and the belayer is wearing a helmet.

Protection

8 bolts + 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

K Gustafson  
 
Yeah, I must have spent 15 minutes trying to get off the ground on Power Series. I'd say the opening to Power Series is more difficult than No Remorse. If you are ever in Haw Creek again, this is a must do. Sep 28, 2015
Creed A
Salt Lake City, UT
Creed A   Salt Lake City, UT
That could be true. The definitely ignore the opening moves in the Wichitas. Power Series is rated 10+ but the boulder problem in the start is described as 5.11. Sep 28, 2015
K Gustafson  
 
I think the Arkansas guide book generally ignores opening moves. Sep 17, 2015
Creed A
Salt Lake City, UT
Creed A   Salt Lake City, UT
If this route really has a V3-4 boulder problem, it should be rated 5.11, I think. Sep 16, 2015