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Routes in 3. The Caterpillar Wall

Aspiring T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
MISSION, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Roger's Arete T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Roger's Spire T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Steamroller T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Winged Eel Fingerling T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Zero Gully T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 49 total, 2/month
Shared By: Sprax Lines on Sep 8, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

The left side of the Caterpillar Wall is marked by a huge leaning pillar that becomes a detached spire at its top. Roger's Arete diagonals up the obvious arete on the right side of the pillar, passes a ledge, and continues up the lower-angle arete to the top of the spire. Only the lower section is bolted, and a semi-detached block leans out from the steepest part of the lower arete. Getting off that block felt awkward. It is probably easier if you are tall. Handren reported 5 bolts; I remember only 3. After the bolts and a ledge, easy climbing leads to the spire's upper face and arete (5.9). There are shallow cracks on the face, but you may need to stem from the arete to the main wall in order to place pro in a vertical crack inside the chimney. At the top of the pillar is a large block, possibly detached, slung with much tat. Belay here or continue up Aspiring.

Location

Obvious bolted arete on the right side of the leaning pillar at the beginning of the Caterpillar Wall.

Protection

Bolts, small to medium gear, maybe RPs. Small cams protect the move to the first bolt. For the upper arete, I did not find any good pro on the face to the left, only around to the right, inside the chimney. At the very beginning, beware of loose blocks on the face.

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