Mountain Project Logo

Dragon's Tooth

5.12d, Sport, 90 ft,  Avg: 3 from 4 votes
FA: Mark Stevenson
W Virginia > New River Gorge > Meadow River Gorge > Upper Meadow > 4. Third Buttress
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details


This is a very fun climb with plenty of stances and fun moves. Apparently a good candidate for an onsight attempt (don't read below!).

Climb vertical rock with good moves to a good undercling stance at the third bolt. Figure out how to commit to the slab above, being careful not to pull to hard on the hollow flakes below the overlap. Continue up the slab to another undercling stance at the base of a blank section, at bolt 5.

Seek the dragon's tooth, a sharp pocket, and some side pulls to reach a good rail up high. Pull the next easy roof and find the best stance (layback to the right) to clip the 7th bolt. Work your feet up very high, tense your body, and reach for the perfect glued flake in the high roof. Keep the pump together over the final roof and you are at the anchors.


Near the right end of Third Buttress. Of the 2 routes on the long flat wall between Skull in the Hole / Strip Tease and the steep cave with Bittersweet, this route is on the left.


8 bolts, 2-bolt anchor. Long draws may help mitigate some rope drag near the top.