Type: Sport, 750 ft (227 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dave Thomson
Page Views: 2,891 total · 35/month
Shared By: Tom Gnyra on Sep 8, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

You & This Route

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A huge, spectacular route made by the late and great Dave Thomson. See topo. Follow the approach for Mt. Louis (the diamond, Kain, Spider), and find the North East face of Edith.

Sun until 1 pm and then Shade. Mostly slabby climbing with lots of technical stuff required but lots of rests on the hard sections. Enjoy it!

P1: 40m, 14 bolts, 10c

P2: 38m, 17 bolts, 10d

P3: 30m, 16 bolts, 11b

P4: 38m, 15 bolts, 11c

P5: 38m, 17 bolts, 11c

P6: 22m, 9 bolts, 10d

go see some cool pictures by Jon Walsh about this classic route

Approach as for Mt. Louis, but branch of the main trail prior to dropping into the Louis/Edith basin. After the path crosses the third avalanche run-out, take the highline which is a well worn but smaller trail (branch is approximately here 51.211282169503306, -115.66557240092588). Follow the trail as it loops back (you'll pass a big boulder in the forest early on) across the avalanche run-out until you are under the face (51.2083404201887, -115.66139293038353) and then take the path of least resistance up until you are level with the base of the climb and can traverse over (51.205739351503546, -115.66438500236173). Avoid going up the gully directly under the climb, it's very loose and steep. From turning off the main trail the climbers path becomes progressively less worn and more over-grown. 


18 quickdraws, regular sport climbing stuff and a 70m rope required for the raps.