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Unnamed 5.10c

5.10c, Sport, 105 ft (32 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 3 votes
FA: Dan McDevitt 2004
California > Southern-Wester… > Hwy 41: Fresno… > Shuteye Ridge > High Eagle > Dark Side

Description

Classic creative slab and face climbing that engages from bottom to top.

Starts in a thin short dihedral past 2 bolts, and then up the steep slabs to a small left facing and leaning book before busting back right over a bulge to the finish. The left facing book is obvious from the ground.

Location

On the left side of the Dark Side just before the base of the dome starts plating as it runs into Shape Shifter.

Protection

14 draws, one .5 camalot protects a small 5.9 runout

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Simon Kent
Pittsburgh
[Hide Comment] Alright.. so if we climbed this right (which I believe we did) it is more than 14 draws (more like 17-18(?), and much taller than 105 feet (closer to 130 I want to say), you must belay up your second and use an intermediate rap. I believe we climbed it right because it was necessary to plug the half inch piece to avoid significant run out. Even if I did bust towards the open book higher I would have finished on the same anchors (and not plugged the cam), and if we went to the first dihedral’sset of anchors we would have finished well below 105 feet and only been 8 draws deep. Just know that you are not getting into a dummy chill lower off single pitch type-a vibe. It’s a lil more involved than that. Still super sick route! Get on it!
Ps You’ll get off in 2 raps Aug 6, 2023