Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches|
|FA:||Dom Stackler & Derrick Starling 11/08/2015|
|Page Views:||273 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Derrick Starling on Sep 6, 2015|
Easy enough regular protection (Cam 4 or 5 possible)
2nd Pitch:20/21, 6b/b+,5.10c/d +-30m - Exit belay to the right to pick up a crack system a few meters to the right then move back to the left using cracks to traverse through a tricky section. The belay is found above.
Protection is less obvious to find than pitch1. Extend your placements to avoid rope drag.
3rd Pitch: 23, 6c, 5.11b +-30m - Exit the belay on the right to find a crack for good pro.
Before the crack ends climb left and then right to find good pro.
Continue up until you reach the bottom of a very large block which you keep on the left. A hollow flake allows you to place a great nut at its base. To avoid the risk of detachment please climb carefully, climb to the right and cross the slaby section to the next belay.
Finding placements can be a bit tricky but there are very good placements to be found.
4th Pitch: 20/21, 6b/b+,5.10c/d +-20m - leave the relay by right onto the first of three horizontal cracks in the beautiful blue / gray rock. Move away on the right, on a slightly ascending traverse.
Continue traversing, always slightly in ascent, to cross a pillar with delicate moves, giving access to the 4th belay at the base of an obvious straight crack.
Protection can be hard to find at times
5th Pitch:17, 5c, 5.9 +-40m - The glory pitch. Up the vertical crack, and enjoy twenty meters of the best jugs in Matopos.
When the easy crack ends leave the crack to the the left to find the next crack, again up then at the end of the crack left again and into another vertical crack, at the top of this crack climb the right of a large block to the belay on the right.
Protection is easy to find
Note: If you plan to rappel, this is the last bolted anchor
6th Pitch: 10, 3, 5.3 +-25m - Scramble to the top on slabs
No belay installed at the top
From the top: walk west down the dwala to find an easy chimney, followed by a descent through the woods, where there is no obvious trace. Move towards the East and downhill until you reach the foot of the dwala to find marked trails that can be followed eastward to reach the car.