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J Nasties
5.10a,
Trad, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 1 from 1
vote
FA: Jeff Smith & Joshua Gale 01.08.08
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (01) Calico Basin
> Ash Canyon
> Fringe-ish
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
J Nasties climbs the obvious, right leaning dihedral. Start by doing a rightward undercling traverse beneath the overhanging block. Pull around the right edge and head up the main corner. The whole thing is sort of awkward and sustained. I recall the crux being near the top of the climb, where you need to pull out of the dihedral and over a bulge onto a lower angled ramp. Belay and rappel from a cord wrapped boulder.
Location
This route is not actually on the Fringe cliff but directly to the north, across the east/west running gully/wash.
Protection
Standard rack.
We left cord wrapped around a boulder w/ a single locker to rappel from. It's probably a good idea to bring replacement cord.