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Routes in Main Wall

German and the Scot, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Highrise Buttress Left T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Just Another Girlfriend Climb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moss and Choss T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Perennials T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: 08/01/2015 Greg German, Jerry Nothstine
Page Views: 248 total · 6/month
Shared By: Gregger Man on Sep 4, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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The Main Wall has several parallel, right-leaning dihedrals. The middle one opens up into an elevator shaft, but the next one to the left is what you are shooting for.

Getting to the start from above requires a couple of raps. Getting to the start from the lake below requires climbing 4 approach pitches as for Highrise Buttress Left.

P1 (5.8) - a short pitch. Move the belay over a couple of dihedrals. It is difficult to protect.

P2 (5.8+) - a long pitch. The dihedral gets cleaner as you go with some technical footwork here and there. There is sparse pro in sections.

P3 (5.8) - a short pitch to the top. Belay from a slung boulder.


Park at the small pull-out near mile marker 8 a couple of curves before Summit Lake. Walk back NE about 0.2 miles to the saddle between Mt. Warren and Rogers Peak, and carefully pick your way up the slope. Alpine Lite is a 20 minute walk directly over the saddle.

To rap down the face of the main wall: the first rap station requires a belayed 20' downclimb (a station there was built from nuts and webbing). The second rap is a full 60m to a good ledge.


A standard rack to #4 (we had a #5 and placed it, but it isn't a requirement).



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