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Trad, 120 ft, Grade III,
Avg: 3 from 3
FA: Drew Spaulding, Dan Hackett, 09/02/15
> Eldorado Canyon SP
> Redgarden Wall
> Redgarden - Tower Two
Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
Natural Mystic is another direct line that gains the summit of Tower 2 from the T2 exit ramps. It climbs about 15'-20' feet to the right of the final pitch of Shasta.
Start directly above the largest tree below the T2 exit ramps. There is a nice belay on the upper, chocolate colored ramp in a shallow, right-facing dihedral. That "loose" corner leads upward toward the triangular roof, but I climb the steep pocketed face instead, starting with a door knob in your left hand. Tricky pocket placements and some bold, slightly runout, pocket climbing leads up to the lower, left side of the triangular roof. More face climbing leads to the obvious, rightward-trending crack system for 80 more feet to the top of Tower 2. This starts out overhanging and stays fairly steep for the remainder of the pitch.... It is super fun and has good gear!
Lots of nuts and thin gear and hand size pieces protect this wild and exposed pitch! Bring thin - 3 1/2".