Wafer of Woe
Avg: 3.8 from 4 votes
Routes in The Elephant's Perch
|Astro Elephant T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Boomers Story T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c|
|Chasing the Dragon T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0|
|Direct Beckey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Divine Guidance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Fine Line, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Mojo T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13|
|Mountaineer's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Myopia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Original Beckey T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Sideline T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Splittgerber-March Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Sunrise Book T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Thorn Bush, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Trunkline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Wafer of Woe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Wendy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||407 total, 15/month|
|Shared By:||ForrestKaye on Sep 2, 2015|
|Admins:||WAGbag, Mike Engle|
DescriptionP1 Starts just left(~30 ft) of the mountaineers route. Basicaly an approach pitch, 30m or so of easy climbing ~5.6 to ledge with a small tree.
Ideally move the belay to the left 20 ft directly under the route.
P2. ~40m of consistent 5.10 climbing. The first half is on a thin flake that feels like it could snap off at any moment. Gear that could hold and not break the flake is sparse but bolts protect through the first half, though not nearly as often as you'd like given that they are a bit rusty (but solid looking). 2nd half inspires confidence as the crack and gear gear gets solid.
The route starts with a bolt you can clip from a ledge. Lieback, jam, pinch and smear any way you can that won't break off the wafer flake. (Testing gear by pulling on a cam placed in the flake, I could feel he flake flex...talk about expando. placement not recommended)
Puts you at the top of pitch 2 for the mountaineers route.
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